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Note 44.103 MOUNT-L 103 of 517 CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 28 lines 4-MAY-1992 16:04
CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 28 lines 4-MAY-1992 16:04
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Date: 01-May-1992
Posted-date: 01-May-1992

Phil-
last summer I was up in the N.Cascades on Mt. Baker and Mt. Challenger(in the
Pickets). I can't remember which side of Baker is which, but I climbed on both
sides actually. From the more commonly climbed side, it's really not too
difficult. We had set camp around 6000' and had a pretty straight-forward
climb up. I can think of only one place that was exposed, and there was no ice
so this is probably not the North ridge. The other side was a lot more intens
e. It's all cake up to the bergschrund, and then it gets fun. The first major
obstacle was a section of steep, EXPOSED snow leading above the berg. The snow
was really soft and self-arresting was out of the question. LOTS of protectio
n is the key! (Of course, this depends on the time of year, temp etc...)
Right above this section was the ice that I think you're talking about. It was
moderately exposed and not too steep, but the ice quality was poor. It was
that granular stuff that looks like road salt UGH! A lot of places were
pretty slippery, and arresting was difficult as one guy found out! A couple of
ice screws would not be a bad idea, although if you're experienced on ice, you
may not need them. Climbing from this side can take a long time, and
it would be good to camp high or leave nice and early! If the weather is nice
though, it's a beauiful climb with lots of scenery. I loved it! Hope you
enjoy the trip!
Pat

PS-if you want info on the Challenger area, write me back. I'd be glad to blab
more...

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